Algen – The intersection between textile design and material counterintelligence

Algen is a material driven textile design project with practical application in furniture design. The project explores alternative materials for textile production. Working through the frame of localism Algen exemplifies the value of local raw resources and studies the potential they hold when intertwined within established production techniques. The project focuses on developing fully biodegradable yarns by using brown algae as a foundational material and tests their application in furniture design.

“In a context of increased material scarcity and built-in obsolescence of consumer goods, adapting and making with inconspicuous tools will develop increasing importance“(Ribul, 2014)

The growing demand for fabric production has led the textile industry to be referred to as one of the biggest polluters in the world. From the usage of distant raw materials to the chemical-intensive dyeing processes and the afterlife of textiles, each step of the life cycle carries its own ecological burden. This pattern results in overproduction and waste, contributing to landfills, water pollution and the depletion of raw resources.

Despite these pressing environmental challenges, the textile industry also holds immense potential for transformation through innovation and sustainable practices.

One such opportunity lies in brown algae.

The material

Brown seaweed is a species that grows rapidly in Northern Europe, offering a local alternative to land-based crops. Brown algae, known for its solidifying properties is commonly found in bioplastic recipes that find application in various ways. Despite its widespread use, algae-based bioplastics have not been fully explored in the context of textile design. Algen explores the potential of algae-based textiles by using a bioplastic recipe based on the usage of Alginate.

Bioplastics made from alginate are typically formed by combining a water-based alginate solution with a calcium chloride crosslinking agent. Algen uses the same recipe, but with a different approach. Rather than mixing the two ingredients, the alginate solution gets extruded into the crosslink through a bottle. This way, the alginate solidifies immediately upon touch, creating thin strings.

The project began by testing a simple bioplastic made from sodium alginate and calcium chloride, focusing on the durability and flexibility of string-like forms. As development continued, only natural, biodegradable ingredients were used to improve performance without compromising sustainability. Various food-based additives like starches and flours were tested, with corn starch proving especially effective in enhancing elasticity and strength.

The process also explored natural dyes made from boiled food ingredients, which maintained the material’s biodegradability while improving its color and texture. These developments brought the material closer to resembling conventional textiles, increasing its potential for practical use.

A sample using corn starch additive

A sample using onion skin natural dye

A sample using turmeric natural dye

The application

Although Algen’s design is focused on developing the material itself, the process of its application holds just as big of an importance. To situate the material in a day-to-day context is to communicate its properties and possibilities. Currently the algae-based yarns are being developed to be fit as furniture textiles, more particularly for use in hand-woven application, focusing on their implementation within seating furniture.  

This stool embodies the project’s structural and aesthetic values, emphasizing material transparency and simplicity. Its clean, cubic frame allows each component to be visually distinct, complementing the algae-based yarns by letting their texture and properties take center stage.

The yarn is hand-woven around the frame in perpendicular directions, reducing tension and enhancing durability. This open structure not only strengthens the seat but also showcases the material as an integral part of the design.

Algen shows how small-scale, sustainable innovation can reshape the textile industry. Using biodegradable brown algae and chemical-free methods, it offers an eco-friendly alternative to conventional materials. Its application in hand-woven furniture proves that experimental materials can be both functional and durable without sacrificing design.

References

Ribul, M. (2014) Recipes for Material Activism Part 1; Available at https://issuu.com/miriamribul/docs/miriam_ribul_recipes_for_material_a